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Dharamsala
Set against the magnificent backdrop of the towering Dhauladhar
ranges, which rise up to more than 4000 meters, Dharamshala,
which literally means The Holy Refuge, lies perched up on
the high slopes in the upper reaches of the Kangra valley.
Founded in 1855, it is one of the 80 hill resorts developed
in the seventeenth century by the British to beat the heat
and dust of the sweltering plains.
Dharamshala town is divided in flesh and soul into two halves,
each with its own character. The lower Dharamshala is the
main town at 1250 meters. The upper Dharamshala or McLeod
Ganj from Dharamshala by road, it is a 10 kilometers drive,
which takes almost the same time as you would, walking up
the steep path. The only reason that you would like to visit
lower Dharamshala would be to see the Kangra Art Museum, which
has a treasure trove of the art and crafts of region.
The vestiges of the Raj dot the town – foremost is the church
of St. John in the wilderness. There is a well-maintained,
old graveyard. It reminds one of other old graveyards in hill-stations
like Mussoorie and Shimla. These are perhaps the only peaceful
places left in the hustle and bustle of these touristic places
and your best bet if you are looking for peace!
LITTLE LHASA
McLeodGanj – the Little Lhasa is thick with the Tibetan cultural
feel. It is an altogether different world where the crisp
breeze is broken by chanting of the hymns along with the tinkling
of the prayer wheels. The place was once full of hippies who
have since moved out with the crowds inundating the town.
For a research scholar, McLeodGanj offers a host of possibilities
and to the not-so-scholarly souls, a cultural bonanza awaits.
First lets look at what has McLeodGanj got to offer to the
hungry palette and then we will look into spiritual stuff!
The Tibetan run restaurants give you an ample respite from
dal, chapatti and rice that you get in most other places.
If you are fond of momos, thukpa, and the likes, you have
come to the right place. Tsongkha Restaurant, Yak Restaurant,
Snowland and Shangrila are some of the place, which serve
excellent food. A constant flow of Westerners has brought
in its wake a number of restaurants and eateries, which offer
the kind of food that is not so commonly available in India.
ABODE OF THE DALAI LAMA
Dharamshala is better known as Dalai Lama’s abode and Tibet’s
Government-in-exile after the Chinese invasion of Lhasa in
October 1959. Needless to say, a visit to Dharamshala would
be considered irreverent without a peek into the various monasteries
dotting the hillsides. A visit to the Namgyal Monastery, ensconcing
the Center of Tibetan Studies is nothing short of mandatory.
‘Tsuglagkhang’, opposite the Dalai Lama’s residence reminds
one of Lhasa – it contains large gilded bronzes of the Buddha,
Avalokiteswara and Padmasambhava.
The other places of interest are the Museum at the Nechung
Monastery which is three kilometers downhill on the way to
Dharamshala and the Norbulingka Institute which has become
a major center of learning. You could see young artists learning
Thangka Painting.
When the Dalai Lama is in residence, he heads the prayers.
For an audience with the Dalai Lama who is also believed to
be the reincarnation of Buddha, special permission needs to
be taken with a proper request in writing at the security
office near Hotel Tibet. The best time to see his him is after
the Tibetan New Year, which falls in March. The living deity
gives spiritual discourses for 10 days.
The hotels and guest houses are all full at this time of the
year when Dharamshala is at its colorful best. If you really
want to savor the place, the best thing to do is to stay at
a family run place. Himachal Tourism also runs a few comfortable
rest houses to suit all budgets.
If one is into meditation, there are a number of classes held
by monks for the beginners, as well as advance practitioners.
Tushita Meditation Center is one such outfit, which offers
clean residential accommodation as well. There are also a
number of alternate medicine doctors in the little town. It
is not unusual to find monks from the Western countries.
AROUND DHARAMSHALA
After satisfying your palette and your soul, you could go
out for a nice long walk or an arduous trek. Bhagsunath, three
kilometers away is an easy option after momos and beer. There
is a temple, a spring and also a waterfall. Dal Lake is a
major disappointment, as it does no justice to its name. An
annual fair is held here in the month of September. It is
worthwhile walking up to Naddi, which offers a splendid view
of the Dhauladhar ranges. If you are adventurous enough, the
Mountaineering Institute can organize treks, rock climbing
and rappelling. They normally would like to do this for groups
of 10 or above.
However, the best thing about Dharamshala is the easygoing
pace, the peaceful expression on everybody’s face. It is a
place where you would like to do the ordinary things in life,
where you would like to let yourself loose and forget about
hectic schedules and maddening self imposed deadlines!
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